Bob,
Needs to be modified, first, but yes, it's very possible to pursuade a 250 to fit by removing the marked 4 pemnuts (put a screw in, grab said screw with vise grips, and pull until it pops out is the technique i've settled on)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/afXz8vua5MvqgYed6if you booger the aluminum up too much pulling them out, they'll bind up on the posts in the chassis and you will need to correct the interference via your preferred manner of mechanical removal. Next problem is it's a 6 pole connector and you need to mate it to the 4 pole on the board - you have to center the cable, should be a few sheets of paper between it and the fan frame when installed correctly.
Now, to warnings: though it would seem to, this does not improve the power capacity of your switch, you need the extra two wires to land for that, which they do not.
I have not done thermal studies at full load, either; The 250's heat sink outperforms the 150 per unit of airflow but am not sure how much pressure drop across the chassis (and therefore airflow) changes with the 250's closed design (this is engineer for watch what you're up to, sir - the one I run has continued to be happy, but I could use a 6 there easily, is not heavy load)